- Location
- Suffolk county, NY
Just bought VitaChem - would this help in anyway - ich or not?
very frustrated
- Thread starter thirty6
- Start date
- Location
- Westchester, N.Y
Vitachem is excellent product. It would help your fish nutrition. Soak your food with it and feed it to your fish.Since you can't remove the fish and lower salinity. Why not try Uv light to at least kill the ich that are swimming in your tank. It can't kill ich on your fish. But since it falls off your fish it can controll the numbers that are looking for a hoist. Also water changes are good too. I don't have one, but would consider it with hippo.
I was reading last night and the uv was suggested in few places for same reasons. I really don't get the uv idea though. Ifi have a 150 g what size uv? If not sized correctly I thought it was just a waste with no benefit. My limited understanding anyway, what do you think?
Also, garlic= no good?
Also, garlic= no good?
- Location
- Freehold NJ
Although there's no proof that it works, I also run a UV. I have 40 watts hooked up to about 200 GPH. As mentioned, I know it can't cure ich but it can help lower their density considerably.
qt setup question:
normally i do a waterchange and fill up my qt tank. being that the water from the dt has ich floating around and reproducing i assume i should be making fresh salt water for the qt setup. i realize this will require a good water change schedule, but my question is the fish may still have the parasite on them/in them. when they go in the qt setup and the parasite drops to repdroduce itself in the new tank havent i just infected that tank as well?
am i overthinking this or does anyone else see it this way as well?
normally i do a waterchange and fill up my qt tank. being that the water from the dt has ich floating around and reproducing i assume i should be making fresh salt water for the qt setup. i realize this will require a good water change schedule, but my question is the fish may still have the parasite on them/in them. when they go in the qt setup and the parasite drops to repdroduce itself in the new tank havent i just infected that tank as well?
am i overthinking this or does anyone else see it this way as well?
- Location
- Bellmore, NY
Same for hypo. You'll be killing the ich regardless. Even with fresh water, as soon as you introduce the fish will be infected.
thanks for reply guys, that makes sense. i realize i have to get a copper test kit to go with it and follow really closely. what a pia and whats really pissing me off is i have qt all of my fish except 2! and they were the last two in
It's tough to keep the copper at the recommended level, especially with the water changes you'll be doing. Good luck!
- Location
- Westchester, N.Y
Qt tank are usually bare bottom or can be set up like the main tank. Qt is more like a holding tank. Just to see if the new fish are eating and are stress free with know diease. But once you notice the fish is affected. You would decide to treat the parasite in Qt tank. Or set up a hospital tank. Either way its up to you. Than you would have to decide what kind of treatment. You can use your Qt tank and run it with a low salinity to treat ich. Or use some kind of treatment. I think copper is the best way to kill ich. But you have to be careful not to use too much. Adding to much will do more harm than good. And too little it won't work. I would get a copper test kit if you use copper. Also their have coppersafe which doesn't work as good as regular copper. So Qt tank can be used as holding tank. Also can be used as hospital tank. Hope this helps....
- Location
- Suffolk county, NY
Best of luck with the QT tank. I currently have a fw 30 gallon set up in my bedroom as well - but I don't pay attention to that anymore so I'm thinking of donating the fish back to Petco or something and breaking down the tank then setting it up for a QT/Hospital tank. LMK how the copper works out.
ick
The Ick monster is ever present. There are 7 ways on dealing with it that have been covered by other members here.
1) quarantine the cat is out of the bag so this is out
2) copper not available for a reef tank
3) hypo salinity again not available for a reef tank
4) Cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp. limited help especially with a full outbreak.
5) UV sterilization. usually can slow down but not eradicate.
6) ozone. see above.
7) stress control. keeping the fish and their water quality as optimal as possible. Water changes help remove the parasite as well as improve water quality.
I hope this can help out someone by putting in in a list. If anyone wants to amend feel free.
The Ick monster is ever present. There are 7 ways on dealing with it that have been covered by other members here.
1) quarantine the cat is out of the bag so this is out
2) copper not available for a reef tank
3) hypo salinity again not available for a reef tank
4) Cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp. limited help especially with a full outbreak.
5) UV sterilization. usually can slow down but not eradicate.
6) ozone. see above.
7) stress control. keeping the fish and their water quality as optimal as possible. Water changes help remove the parasite as well as improve water quality.
I hope this can help out someone by putting in in a list. If anyone wants to amend feel free.
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