- Location
- Wheatley Heights, NY (long island)
dj ze, where did you buy your leds from?
Over a 4' tank:
$560 for the ATI fixture + $120 per year X 3 years($360) + 60 watts per hour per day over three year(approx. $120)= $1040
2 X AI about $1100
So in about 3 years they are about a wash. Over MH the leds will pay for themselves in 2 or less years depending on chiller usage/necessity.
LEDs may not appear as bright but they give more PAR per watt and cause those glitter lines that we all love.
Plus, for those GREEN people, they contain no mercury.
ok, lets not get too far off topic.
had vho, mh,pwcpt and now T5, very happy, never gonna try led's. Lots of punch with T5 change color by changing bulbs. Good sps growth, and a DIY set up cost me $50 for 6 bulb set plus bulbs.lol.You guys crack me up with ure $500.00 fixtures.You might have 10% more par than me but you spend $450 more.
ok, lets not get too far off topic.
had vho, mh,pwcpt and now T5, very happy, never gonna try led's. Lots of punch with T5 change color by changing bulbs. Good sps growth, and a DIY set up cost me $50 for 6 bulb set plus bulbs.lol.You guys crack me up with ure $500.00 fixtures.You might have 10% more par than me but you spend $450 more.
ok, lets not get too far off topic.
had vho, mh,pwcpt and now T5, very happy, never gonna try led's. Lots of punch with T5 change color by changing bulbs. Good sps growth, and a DIY set up cost me $50 for 6 bulb set plus bulbs.lol.You guys crack me up with ure $500.00 fixtures.You might have 10% more par than me but you spend $450 more.
Upgrades and new products are nothing new in this hobby. I am still running an ASM G3 with a Sedra needle wheel, I do not plan on an upgrade for some time. I would love a better skimmer, but cannot afford one. I chose to update my lights instead.Yeah but like already stated- LED's are like computers, every 3-6 months there is some outrageous upgrades that in my eyes if youre running LED's is something youll be upset youre fixture doesnt have and want to upgrade, a better controller, comes with multiple optics for different spread of light or adjustable optics, easier exchange of LED's to change color array easily so on and so forth----youre upgrade is then another $2000 - $5000 dollars depending on the size of your tank, when the replacement of your T-5 only OR T-5 with MH fixture will still be $400-$700. Then once you upgrade its another 3-4 year wait till the LED fixture has then again paid for itself.
Kind of a vicious circle to me.
Upgrades and new products are nothing new in this hobby. I am still running an ASM G3 with a Sedra needle wheel, I do not plan on an upgrade for some time. I would love a better skimmer, but cannot afford one. I chose to update my lights instead.
The 50,000 hours are based on CREE's datasheet which should be valid since I am using CREE's, and according to CREE, AFTER 50,000 hours, they drop to about 70% light output. I believe thats also with the assumption the LEDs are at a maximum of 80C which is 176F. My heatsinks are without a doubt keeping them way below that temp so I'm good there as well.
diy = no warranty.and guys building them factor in the amount of time it took you to make it x your hourly rate. so for ming your $1800 in cost plus how many hours research, actually building also. as stated i have ran mh, pc ,vho, led and t5. had the maxspec and a AI unit. i dont like the every 12 months having to drop a chunk on bulbs but i do love being able to create what ever color combo i like, you guys taking par readings how bout kevlar ? missing much of the reds and yellows ? do you have from 6k-20k ? i am not against leds, one day i might own them again. but i will say this i dont truelly care for the fake look of the corals under them. and as ming stated and i have been saying for years, t5 doesnt really produce much less heat then mh, it isn't a focused light so the mh appears to put more heat out, but move your hand 6" over from the mh and there isnt the heat, as where t5's spread heat clear across heating the whole top surface. this is one thing i do love about the ATI powermodule with the fans and how it pulls air in the end and across keeping the whole unit cool.
Is this based on 100% output at all light frequencies? Or, is this the same as a skimmer company rating tank size?
Im curious because I also want to make the jump to LED sometime. I am also not against making my own fixture.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlamp7090xr-e.pdf said:Based on internal long-term reliability testing, Cree projects that white XLamp XR-E LEDs will deliver median 70% lumen
maintenance after 50,000 hours of operation at a forward current of 700 mA. This projection is based on constant current operation with junction temperature maintained at or below 135?C and ambient air temperature maintained at or below 25?C.
Cree projects royal blue, blue, green and white XLamp XR-E LEDs to maintain a mean 70% lumen maintenance after 50,000 hours, provided the LED junction temperature is maintained at or below 90?C and ambient air temperature is maintained at or below 85?C.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf said:Cree currently recommends a maximum drive current of 1000 mA for XLamp XP-G white in designs seeking the ENERGY STAR* 35,000 hour lifetime rating (≥ 94.1% luminous flux @ 6000 hours) or 25,000-hour lifetime rating (≥ 91.8% luminous flux @ 6000 hours).
What size is your tank? Good price for sure. But I still find it odd that people have such price differences with their equipment.
The other thing I worry about right now is----LED's are new enough and so many companies jumped into the manufacturing that you never know if you get them from a company such as AI or PACSUN etc. or get them built if in 2 years the company or person you got them off of will still be in business/dealing in LED's.