Chiller plumbing

[smoknreefrs]

I have a chiller in route, and is to be received by tues. My question is what seems to be the best method to plumb it?

Is it better to spill it back in to the sump, or just have it go straight from the return pump to the chiller and to the return lines to the display tank.

 

[JimmyR1rider]

I would think back to the return chamber of the sump so that it mixes with some water before it returns to the display instead of creating a column of much cooler water where it returns into the display if ran that way? I'm also more asking than suggesting but to me that would make sense- not tryin to hijack the thread- was a great question is all.

 

[DrGonzo]

Your return pump may have too much flow for the chiller. In order to avoid overworking the chiller the water must flow somewhat slowly through the chiller.

 

[albano]

From chiller to tank



.

 

[pecan2phat]

Return line back to tank.

 

[smoknreefrs]

Thanks all. I was actually thinking that going back into the return chamber was a good idea too, until I really thought about it. It seems that i would just keep recycling a large % of the same water, thus making the chiller run longer. My return pump is a Eheim 1262. According to the specs its only rated for about 898 gph at 0 head pressure. The chiller is rated for a max of 900 gph (Pacific coast 1/4hp).

Here are my tanks paramaters just so I can get the best possible advice:
125 gal
30 gallon sump (approx 17 gallons of water)
Highest temp so far 82.5
Target temp 79
750W lighting

Just to recap. Running directly to the chiller from the return pump, and from the chiller directly to the display tank is the most efficient way to plumb the chiller???

 

[Wes]

Yes, from pump to chiller to display.

Plumbing it back to the sump will cause the chiller to cycle on and off too frequently. In other words it will chill the water in the sump quickly and turn off. When that water goes to the display the new sump water is hot and the chiller kicks back on.

Cycling on/off frequently can reduce the lifespan of your chiller.


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

 

[smoknreefrs]

Yes, from pump to chiller to display.

Plumbing it back to the sump will cause the chiller to cycle on and off too frequently. In other words it will chill the water in the sump quickly and turn off. When that water goes to the display the new sump water is hot and the chiller kicks back on.

Cycling on/off frequently can reduce the lifespan of your chiller.


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

thats what i figured. thanx

 

[smoknreefrs]

okay, i have the chiller plumbed in as stated above. the next question i have...

Is it normal for the chiller to turn on and off to keep the temp stable?

I have an aqua controller jr and the temp on it shows 2-3 degrees warmer than the digital temp display. which one should I trust?

 

[KathyC]

Yes, it is normal for a chiller to turn on and off to keep the temp stable.

Use a thermometer to see if your controller is showing the correct temp of the tank.

 

[smoknreefrs]

A thermometer??? whats that? LOL, just kidding. I have so many probes and digital meters and no thermometer anywhere in the house. Ive lost my roots. But, that is such a great and simple idea...:banghead:

 

[juiceguy]

get a simple glass thermometer and use it as a reference. i think you can set a +/- difference in temp to determine when the chiller will kick on/off. the closer the deviation in temps, the more the chiller will cycle on/off

 

[pecan2phat]

I've never used the onboard thermostat on any of the chillers that I have had. They are like a thermostat on a heater, just too close to the actual cooling or heating element to have any accuracy.
I set the chiller range about 4 degrees below what I want and then utilize my Aqua Controller to control the chiller. I do use a relay box made from parts from Radio Shack so that the chiller power line is on a separate electrical outlet because the DC8 probably cannot take the start up amperage.

 

[smoknreefrs]

I've never used the onboard thermostat on any of the chillers that I have had. They are like a thermostat on a heater, just too close to the actual cooling or heating element to have any accuracy.
I set the chiller range about 4 degrees below what I want and then utilize my Aqua Controller to control the chiller. I do use a relay box made from parts from Radio Shack so that the chiller power line is on a separate electrical outlet because the DC8 probably cannot take the start up amperage.

this is the approach that I am going to take. i just thought that turning on and off the chiller at the outlet would ruin the chiller.

 

[SIReefer]

Hey smokin - I have a Pac Coast 1/4 chiller on my 75 & am happy w/it. Good luck with the unit.

 

[smoknreefrs]

what method are you using in regards to plumbing and controlling the unit. are you using the chillers thermostat ( which i find in accurate) or are you using a controller to cycle the chiller on and off? Also, does it have a tendency to kick on and off frequently?

 

[SIReefer]

Plumbing-flex tubing from my return pump(QuietOne3000 - 780gph) into the chiller & flex tubing from chiller to DT.
Controlling-I use the chiller matched to 3 thermometers - 1 digital in sump & 2 reg in DT. I'm looking into getting a controller.
Cycling - Not 2 much. I dont have it hooked up yet (my bad) but I think I set it for 4 deg. diff. It is quiet though & no probs in 6 years.

 

[NYreefNoob]

ive done both way's and having it plumbed into the return cause's it to be on alot less, i have a current 1/10th on mine and use the controller on the chiller without problems for 4 yr's what i love about mine is my heater plug sinto the chiller, got to make sure the draw and amp's wont be too much for your aqua controller

 

[smoknreefrs]

m using the chiller to turn it on (78) and off (76). the controller has never turned it off yet cause once the lights go out, the temp stays pretty stable on its own. i set the thermostat on the chiller to 73. the chiller keeps the temp at a steady 77.3 when the mh are on. but when the mh are it it does cycle on every 30min or so for approx 2 min to keep the temp steady. but once the lights are off it doesnt turn on anymore. so i guess i have it dailed in pretty good.