Coloring up SPS

[jackson6745]

Huge topic. I don't know where to start but there is much to be discussed. Someone spark up this discussion :givebeer:

 

[lfsmarineguy]

there's more to it than "discuss". There are many different sps and while some may color up under certain conditions, others may bleach out and die. The easiest solution is to know where the coral was collected from specifically (depth, water temp, water movement, etc.) but this is often impossible. There are a few broad statements that do apply to most sps though. Most sps come from high light, high flow, low nutrient parts of the reef (close to the surface). Out of 1,000 reefs studied in a ummm....study showed that the average temp on wild reefs was 82 and change and the average salinity was 1.026 and change (from what I understand the study was a global test and not just the pacific). I forget what book this was in but I am almost certain it was one of Eric Borneman's coral books, I think the one with the green anchor on the cover. So, rather than try to make each individual coral happy by changing tank parameters constantly, the best we can do is try and keep our tanks within a certain corridor of tolerance for our corals.

 

[jackson6745]

there's more to it than "discuss". There are many different sps and while some may color up under certain conditions, others may bleach out and die. The easiest solution is to know where the coral was collected from specifically (depth, water temp, water movement, etc.) but this is often impossible. There are a few broad statements that do apply to most sps though. Most sps come from high light, high flow, low nutrient parts of the reef (close to the surface). Out of 1,000 reefs studied in a ummm....study showed that the average temp on wild reefs was 82 and change and the average salinity was 1.026 and change (from what I understand the study was a global test and not just the pacific). I forget what book this was in but I am almost certain it was one of Eric Borneman's coral books, I think the one with the green anchor on the cover. So, rather than try to make each individual coral happy by changing tank parameters constantly, the best we can do is try and keep our tanks within a certain corridor of tolerance for our corals.

BLAH BLAH BLAH. You have decent SPS colors under PC's which is hardly reproducing nature. Borneman is an a$$

"the best we can do is try and keep our tanks within a certain corridor of tolerance for our corals"

We are way beyond that statement. Keeping a low nutrient tank these days is easy will all the great equipment these days. There are many ways to manipulate colors in a reef tank i.e. photoperiod length, potassium level, nutrient level, coral placing, lighting etc...






Turd I is:shhh:

 

[ShaunW]

I've recently re-done my husbandry this is what I have done to color up my tank:

Stop messing with it. I am trying to limit the introduction of my hand into the tank, since I think that we introduce inhibitory/problematic "things" from our skin.

QT all additions, i.e. no pest introductions. Pest have hurt me too many times already.

Create Tank stability though automation.

pH consistency above 8.0 (8.2 is better) along with high alk/ca. I got rid of my calcium reactor which was keeping my pH at 8.0. The scientific literature points to lower pH interfering with calcification.

Feeding different foods at night during maximal polyp extension. Attempting to provide the nutrients (amino acids) missing from strict photosynthetic processes.

Added an external DSB.

 

[SlamaJama]

I would agree with the statment that u cannot cover all the bases with every corals prefered enviromental conditions......i think the word husbandry is the key....ive done everything i could to keep the nutrients down and my water clean, ive added a carbon reactor, phos. reactor and along with the 2 part additive ive incorporated kalk and potasium with my top off...altho over the heat of the summer most my corals whr brown, some pieces have now colored up....

 

[Kedd]

Solbby has the right idea to start, (Stop F---ing with the tank) was some of the best advise I ever got.


Kedd

 

[House of Laughter]

Three words!!!

FEED YOR FISH!!

House

 

[Wes]

i think people tend to go overboard on the "low nutrient" idea and starve their tank. Keep the bad nutrients in check (P04) and feed away. That is my theory anyway as my corals have been lightening up. I think i have been too paranoid of overfeeding etc. because it has been burned in my head that nutrients need to be non existant.

My plan of action is to try the Ultralith Zeo system which will allow me to keep nutrients in check, add amino acids, etc., and increase feeding and bioload.

I know zeo is controversial to some, but I am going to give it a try. It should allow me to feed my tank alot while keeping the bad nutrients in check.

 

[ShaunW]

i think people tend to go overboard on the "low nutrient" idea and starve their tank.

My bacterial studies are pointing to this indeed being true.

 

[noodleman]

what do sps eat anyways?? :scratchch

 

[jhale]

what do sps eat anyways?? :scratchch

here is the first of seven articles Eric Borneman wrote on that subject.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/eb/index.php

I have not read them yet, maybe you can Al and summarize them
for us

 

[ShaunW]

what do sps eat anyways?? :scratchch

Most, if not all, eat bacteria for starters, then it varies with the species we are talking about. Some don't require food at all, and acquire all their nutients via photosynthesis and amino acid absortion directly from the water column.

 

[noodleman]

here is the first of seven articles Eric Borneman wrote on that subject.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/eb/index.php

I have not read them yet, maybe you can Al and summarize them
for us

that has to be the most boring read of my life, i rather retake my physical chem class!!:tongue1:

but from the first article Eric Borneman states
"Coral reef food sources, then, are largely produced by the ocean. Bacteria, detritus, phytoplankton, zooplankton, small benthic fauna, mucus, and dissolved organic and inorganic material of various types and sizes are what comprise the majority of food on a coral reef"

as for nutrients like phosphate and nitrate...
"Bacteria and phytoplankton are also extremely proficient at removing this material. All these organisms are quite valuable to our captive reef communities. They not only "purify" water by the utilization of nutrients, but also are all part of a beneficial food web, both in coral reefs and in aquariums."

but he also claims that the highly efficent proteinskimmers now will remove pretty much all the bacteria and plankton in our systems....how true is that statement?
He "realize this is contrary to the advice that many others may offer, and it may sound like a reversal of thought and progression over the past year's trends towards increasingly efficient protein skimmers. However, I feel today's powerful skimmers are certainly able to provide adequate nutrient removal to maintain aquariums with very low nutrient levels without running "around the clock.""

and according to Eric, the best water to keep your tank at a baseline is with routine waterchanges.:splitspin So does that mean less skimming and more water changes??

"We may never be able to duplicate the coral reef, but we can get closer and closer as we learn more about closed systems and the natural communities."

thats the basic idea i got out of the first article:givebeer:

 

[lfsmarineguy]

wow Jackson, where can I buy your book. It must be filled with such clever observations as "Eric Borneman is an @$$." Clearly you have a grasp of the subject far surpassing any of us mere mortals. Are you a politician by any chance, because I'm pretty sure you just reitterated what I said about tank parameters as if I was wrong in saying the same.

 

[noodleman]

So my next question is....what gives sps their color? Is it their natural tissue color? Since too much nutrients means more zooxanthellae, so does the zooxanthellae actually mask their true colors?

 

[tonyyammine]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhale

here is the first of seven articles Eric Borneman wrote on that subject.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/eb/index.php

I have not read them yet, maybe you can Al and summarize them
for us
i lost that article after the 3rd sentence ill stick on wat u guys say

 

[Aqua Pro Builder]

No idea what will color them up in general but at least I observed that with changing environment, their color will keep on changing. I have couple frags from JHale for which the polyps body is very brown and the tips are very green when I got them. I was told that they are purple digitdatz. After a couple weeks, brown turns light purple and green turns to lighter green. Couple months later, the polyps body turns clear and the tips are same color. There are a lot of skeleton growth but the poylps are not as dense as before. Most recently, the body of the polyps turn to brown again. So far, I have seen it in purple for a period of two three months which fit its name while all other times, its color-changes never match its name.

So I assume if we alter or deviate from the environment they live in, they will change color and may( or may not due to health issue) stay in that color we like. The color may not be the most natural or heathly though. So I have witnessed color changes but not color ups. Hope some can share thier experience.

From my own, I feel temperature changes cause color changes greatly.

 

[Tonyscoots84]

wow Jackson, where can I buy your book. It must be filled with such clever observations as "Eric Borneman is an @$$." Clearly you have a grasp of the subject far surpassing any of us mere mortals. Are you a politician by any chance, because I'm pretty sure you just reitterated what I said about tank parameters as if I was wrong in saying the same.

:irked: i belive he rich no's his stuff.... look @ his tank, he is doing something right :duh: ....

 

[Pseudo]

Observations...

High water flow- Removes waste from corals, brings bacteria from surrounding areas (LR, fish poop) (food)

Lighting- Proper lighting in the spectrums that enhance growth and color. Corals are also photosynthetic. Lighting period for different types of corals and depths at which they are collected contribute to color of same. Lighting Intensity contributes highly to color and growth (PAR level for you sci-fi guys)

Food- corals eat. SPS eat bacteria for the most part. Some can even eat cyclopseze (Observed by many including myself) Golden pearls and other crap. SPS do not eat fish poop but fish poop has bacterial matter in it which the corals do eat. Hence, feed your fish

Chemical media- Carbon reduces tannins in water improving water clarity which allows higher light visiblity for corals. This is why if you use carbon after not doing so for long periods of time, lighting period should be adjusted unless other mechanical/chemical means were employed during same period.

Mechanical filtration- Mechanical filtration can consist of simple filter floss (not recommended for reefs unless consistently replaced), micron filter bags, container filters (hate them, nitrate factories..) and above all the Infamous Big Protein skimmer. The most important piece of equipment for a reef besides lighting. Removes Tannins, organic material and fish waste before breaking down inside the aquarium and causing higher nitrites and nitrate. All of these MUST be cleaned on a regular schedule.

Undoubtably not the only things that contribute to a successful reef but also help growth and color in SPS corals. The key is to balance and consistent parameters.

Chemical additives - Calcium, magnesium, Iodine, Potassium and other additives. Of all of these, calcium addition is the most important. But again that is easier said than done. Most salt mixes will give you "close" to proper levels of calcium and magnesium for tank inhabitants but most must be buffered for correct "optimum" levels for coral growth and color. Once again, it is the balance of these that determine coral health.

Tank parameters - Everyone will have different params just because we all never use the same stuff (equip, salt, or water) at the same time from the same sources. The obvious part of parameters is one constant basis..Natural seawater.. It is used as a baseline for coral water conditions in the wild (open Oceans). Alk, calcium and mag levels will be elevated in home aquaria for the simple fact is we suck at keeping our tanks maintained to Ocean levels. WE play with our tanks to much!!

We also want elevated levels of growth, Coloring up of corals and Polyp extension the lenth of our fingers. There are also different theories as to how to get to these areas in our tanks. Zeovit, DSB, Low nutrient, Bare Bottom, Surge tanks, Heavy Bio-load (Fish), Low Bio-load (no fish).. blah blah blah...

Correct husbandry should be paramount to anything else. If you have hair algae in your tank you have problems. If you have more detritus in your tank than sand, your tank sucks... If all your fish have ich and die then you suck.. and so on.

DO water changes (replaces calcium, mag, balance alk removes waste and replenishes trace elements), monitor the coral health and other inhabitants. Changes in animal health also are indicators for coral health and vice versa. Get the right equipment for your tank. If you can only afford a Seaclown then you need to keep damsels not a reef. Ask questions, it helps..

What does all of this have to do with coloring up SPS ? Nothing and Everything... Cant have coral color if they cant survive long enough to COLOR UP. SPS can start out in one persons tank Green or Brown and turn blue in anothers. Phosphate can do that, high nitrate levels can do that and starved corals can do that.

Kasei

 

[Pseudo]

Oh yeah.. Rich has been one of the few people not only on this board but in the hobby that has successfully kept and propogated SPS corals. He has set the bar high earning himself the name SPS Pimp. Like I have always said, not everyone who has written a book knows everything there is to know about the hobby and not everyone that has NOT written a book should have their ideas shunned. I have read more than a few that need to research thier facts again... I will not mention names.



Master Kasei