HVAC question

[pmui]

Need some trouble shooting. I have a house with hot water baseboard. It's been running fine for the last several years. This winter I notice the the baseboards making a loud banging noise when it starts up. I have Weil-Mclain heater, and a AC smith hot water boiler. Any insight to help fix this annoying noise/problem would be great.
-Just a thought, maybe its a water hammer effect? maybe the airbladder deflated?

Thanks,
Peter

 

[jaa1456]

Have you ever bled the system? Sounds like air in the system.

 

[pmui]

I have not personally bled the system. There is a little valve, i loosen the the screw thingy, to try and bleed it but did not notice any air coming out of it.

How would you bleed it?

 

[redfishblewfish]

I believe you have a Weil-Mclain boiler (heater) and an AC Smith hot water heater.

I doubt your expansion tank (bladder) is the problem. If it was, the blow out valve on the boiler would be spitting water.

Do you know if you have an air troll on the system?..this automatically removes air from the system.

If you don?t, this would be my first guess in that there is air in the system causing the banging/noise. You need to manually bleed the system. You should find bleeder screws in each baseboard unit?.under covers that open. Start in the highest point in your house (second floor) and bleed these first?then first floor.

 

[pmui]

I know that there is no Air Trol on the system. I will have to look at each baseboard to check if it has a bleeder screw. I'll get back to you guys. Thanks alot.

 

[jaa1456]

My old system had only a bleeder valve on the unit itself. I don't have bleeder screws on each baseboard. My new unit purges itself and I don't have to touch it. Every set up is a little different and even every installer will do something different as well.

 

[edd]

you bleed the system by the boiler. on mine theirs a hose bib near the zone valve. when their is air in hot water system you usually hear the water running thru the pipes.

 

[pmui]

ok. I just checked the baseboards, the caps don't' remove easily, and i don't see any bleeder screws access on any of them.
I do recall see the plumber several years ago, flush the system with a hose. I'm not sure how he did it.
-do i just close the blade valve.
-attach a hose
-then open the spigot valve to drain the zone?

 

[pmui]

 

[Will]

Yes....You have to close both ball valves then open the each gate valve ( spigot) that's how the plumber got the air out...but!! you need pressure to push the air out which you get by manually opening the feed valve...there is a lever and when you pull it up it will bypass the feed valve and put more pressure in the system to force the air out. But!!! you have to make sure you don't exceed 30lbs or you'll blow the relief valve.Other way is with a pony pump... Easier for me to do it then to explain it to someone. If I were closer... I would help you out. Only takes a couple of minutes (10 -15 ) to bleed the system..I was in the HVAC buisness for 15yrs...

I see You have an air vent on the system just before the feed before the expansion tank ...make sure the cap on top is open and it is working...

 

[pmui]

is the feed valve, the bell looking thing? (right behind the yellow blade valve)?

 

[edd]

second pic, on right of yellow gate valve. yes bell shaped.

 

[NewfiDog]

If you havent got it fixed, are you in NYC or NJ, if NJ where, if your close i can help you. Leave the air vent alone its useless, you may just make it leak.

 

[pmui]

last few question:
- does the heat in the zone need to be running? (do i switch the 'manual on') on?
-how long do i run/drain the water? 5/10/15 min?

 

[pmui]

If you havent got it fixed, are you in NYC or NJ, if NJ where, if your close i can help you. Leave the air vent alone its useless, you may just make it leak.

There is no bleeder valves on the baseboards. I'm in Union (Scotch plains) NJ.

It seems pretty straight forward, on how to bleed the system. I just don't want to break anything or get scorched by hot water. I'm pretty handy at doing thing just don't want to learn the "hard way" with medical bills

 

[NewfiDog]

Yeah your to far for me, but yes turn off the boiler. 2 five gallon buckets on each zone should be plenty. If that dosent work it could be a few things.
Do you have 2 zones? do you have 2 zone valves if so you may have to open them.

 

[pmui]

i have 2 zones, with 2 zone valves. I will try and purge it tonight.
-thanks for telling me to turn off the boiler, we planning to leave it on when i was doing this.

 

[NewfiDog]

The zone valves should have a lever for manual open.

 

[Will]

you can shut the boiler off before you purge the zones.Purge till you see the air coming out....or drain each zone into a 5 gal bucket...that might be enough and if your air vent is piped in the correct spot it will let air out. Problem is they are rarely in the correct spot...if you have zone valves you will have to manually open them...just pull down the handle

 

[pmui]

What is the correct way to turn off the boiler? Is it just turn off the gas line coming into the boiler? or flip the red emergency switch? If i flip the red switch won't it also turn off the power?
How do you relight the boiler? do you just put a match in the hole till the pilot light relights(i think there is a safety for the gas).