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Anonymous

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I have an Oceanic 37 gallon tank that has been sitting in the corner for a couple of years that I plan to finally set up. The tank measures about 18" x 24" x 24" high. I would like to set this up as an SPS tank with cleaner shrimp and a few select fish. I may add clams as well. I do not want to cut corners with the set up, and I want to create as much biodiversity as possible.

I would like comments on my basic plan:

1) The tank is not reef ready, but I would like to drill it so that I can have an overflow to a sump and maybe a refugium. I bought a diamond hole bit for this purpose. I will drill a single hole for a bulkhead a short distance from the top. I plan to install a horizontal pvc pipe with numerous slots instead of a tradition overflow box. I will use a modified Durso design on the outside of the tank to direct the overflow into the sump and/or refugium. The return will just run over the top edge of the tank.

2) Circulation - besides the return from teh sump, I plan to use one of the smaller Voretech pumps mounted on the back wall.

3) Lighting - I have a 4x 65 watt PC fixture, but I may opt for a single 250 watt HQI double-ended bulb (particualrly if I decide to keep clams).

4) Sump - a pretty basic design. I'll probably use a devider to isolate and maintain the water level for a skimmer. Not much else.

5) Refugium - I may add a separate tank spaced above the sump but below the tank. If so, then I will divert some of the overflow from the tank into the refugium, which will then overflow into the sump (maybe bypassing the skimmer). I'll fill this with live rock and have a deep sandbed. I will probably add a small pc light above the refugium to promote macro algae growth and maybe even a few mangrows.

6) Skimmer - I need one, but I'm not sure what would be a good choice. Probably an in-sump model. I'm looking for suggestions.

7) Live rock - I have about 50 lbs of quality Figi and Tonga branch rock that has been sitting in a garbage (with a power head and heater) for a few years. It probably has lost much of its live, but I still see growth on most of the rock. I plan to use the best pieces in the tank and put the rest in the refugium and/or sump.

8) Supplements - I would really prefer to avoid the hassle of a calcium reactor (I have a huge reator that I am no loger using). Thus, I will probably just drip kalkwasser.

9) I do not plan to use UV or any ovther type of filtration.

Well, that is about it. All comments and suggestions welcome.

Mike
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
as far as drilling- water is your friend - lots of water. lots and lots.

I think you outta bite the bullet now, and do the 250 MH at the start.

not sure about skimmers - I'm still in the question asking/spying around mode myself...


You've had a garbage can full of live rock sitting for several years???? wow. talk about slow cooking...
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I would take a very hard look at the new LEDs. I've decided never to buy more conventional lighting. I have LEDs on a freshwater discus tank at home, where I am trying to minimize electrical consumption. LEDs suitable for marine systems are now priced comparable to your 250W halide (I have two 150 W HQI plus compact fluorescents on my 100 gal. and my clams are happy as clams and trebled in size. Do you really need a 250 W halide on a 37 gallon tank?. You'll cook your sushi that way.)
 
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Anonymous

Guest
budhaboy":271yf6ta said:
as far as drilling- water is your friend - lots of water. lots and lots.

I think you outta bite the bullet now, and do the 250 MH at the start.

not sure about skimmers - I'm still in the question asking/spying around mode myself...


You've had a garbage can full of live rock sitting for several years???? wow. talk about slow cooking...

You are probably right about the 250 MH.

Over the years, as I moved into bigger and bigger tanks, i gave many of the old set-ups to family members. My mother had the 37 gallon Oceanic, but got tired of the upkeep. Most the rock came from a 175 bow front that I gave to my son. He took it down when his family moved to a new housea few years ago. I kept 2/3 of a garbage can full of the best rock and gave the rest to a LFS. I knew that someday I would want to set up the 37 and quality of rock (particularly the Tonga branch) would be hard to replace. So it has been cooking in the corner of my workshop since then.

Lately, my grandkids (just turned 3) have shown an interest in fish, so I'm motivated to set the 37 back up. I think they would be fascinated with an active small reef tank with lots of critters.
 
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Anonymous

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Subcomandante Marcos":2fudfrph said:
I would take a very hard look at the new LEDs. I've decided never to buy more conventional lighting. I have LEDs on a freshwater discus tank at home, where I am trying to minimize electrical consumption. LEDs suitable for marine systems are now priced comparable to your 250W halide (I have two 150 W HQI plus compact fluorescents on my 100 gal. and my clams are happy as clams and trebled in size. Do you really need a 250 W halide on a 37 gallon tank?. You'll cook your sushi that way.)


Thanks for the tip. You are probably correct that a 150 HQI should be sufficient. I just measured the tank and it is 21" high. I have not kept up with the latest lighting trends, but am aware that there has been lots of advancements in LED technology. I'll look into it.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Subcomandante Marcos":390ikyve said:
I would take a very hard look at the new LEDs. I've decided never to buy more conventional lighting. I have LEDs on a freshwater discus tank at home, where I am trying to minimize electrical consumption. LEDs suitable for marine systems are now priced comparable to your 250W halide (I have two 150 W HQI plus compact fluorescents on my 100 gal. and my clams are happy as clams and trebled in size. Do you really need a 250 W halide on a 37 gallon tank?. You'll cook your sushi that way.)
I've been looking into the LEDs, mostly through Charles' recomendations, and I still havent found a set that appeals to me color wise...at least not by the photos I've seen. The fact I have all my old lighting is also influencing my plans(sorry to hijack Unkey Mikey)
 
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Anonymous

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It's all good Bhuda. :)

Even if I stick with halides for the main tank, I may look at LEDs for the refugium to eliminate some heat.
 

brandon4291

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Im still sold on t5's. its the color spectrum we want, less heat compared with some of the mhs and compacts depending on what you have, and once I saw a large tank using only those that I thought was halide driven I was sold on the depth penetration! I like them because they still make guaranteed results without question whereas LED's have been debateable but I can also attest there are more and more systems charting long term sps growth with LED's that are winning me over.

LEDs look great on everyone's tank for the first several months, the more 2 year tanks I see using only that type of lighting the more convinced I'll be, and then the temp savings will win me over along with bulb life.
 

brandon4291

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Some posts from Anthony Calfo I think it was over at wet web still concern me with LED's if a pros opinion is worth weighing. I believe his posts said the growth from LEDs was unpredictable or something like that, maybe its not a big deal as the bulbs have evolved even further in just the last two years.
 
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Anonymous

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I just ordered a Super Reef Octopus 1000 in sump skimmer and a Vortech MP10 prop pump for in tank circulation & wave making.

I have not yet decided on lighting, but I am leaning towards a Sunlight Supply LumenMax 3 pendent, a Lumatech Dimmable electronic ballast, and a Phonix 250 watt DE 14K bulb.
 

brandon4291

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I would go with that...not that led's are bad but when you can accomodate that power lighting we already know it simply grows everything minus some heat and bulk issues. Id still take the guarantee, but after a few more years I could be convinced on LED. as in seeing a tank running it for two years or more, pre and post pics of same corals. Thats hard to find for an LED system.
 
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Anonymous

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Thanks.

On the matter of calcium, I'm still undecided between dripping kalkwasser or using the 2-part additives. But I have plenty of time before I need to make a decision.
 

brandon4291

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can't wait to see how it works out either way. Its ideal in some tanks with ph issues and high demands when counterdripped to the photoperiod

I prefer two parts which can expensive if your system will be really high tech.

more room for error than a kalk mistake
 

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