If I might toss in a little advice, I think only one thing (the dosing) needs to be addressed to get it up to full par.
I noticed the candy coral was slightly withdrawn, showing the "ribs" a little around the polyp head. This can easily be caused by a bump from a fish or crab, but likely it is due to low levels of either calcium or alk or both, along with the available light. Ideally, caulastrea will balloon up so large that the individual polyp heads will touch each other and at no point can any of the ridges be seen. If it is normally that inflated, then just ignore.
But, if it stays a little withdrawn here's what I would suggest:
First of all, I wouldnt mix any dosers together with calcium at any time because of the potential precipitation of either or both of the agents. It is very likely that the corals have been surviving alone on the water change imports, with the dosing having little or no effect on the corals (in the amounts you've stated adding=drops) Ia of course is best added in very small amounts, maybe one drop a week in that setup of the common Ia additives. Ps, Id use iodide IMO.
I too was leary in dosing my picos for the first few months, but as time goes by I have seen all of my picos need at least 3-4 mLs every three days, about 10x the amount you are currently adding, of both a balanced calcium and alkalinity additive. If you buy the right additive (I use C-Balance, or EVS's Ionic) they will have the strontium etc mixed in correctly where you don't have to dose it separately. Your system will not have a notable demand for strontium until its packed full of LPS and SPS and even then its debatable>
I also didnt see you mention an alkalinity additive, and thats the one you need the most in my opinion. Calcium levels of any measure are useless without a corresponding amount of carbonate (alkalinity) for the corals to use. Also, these unfiltered, unskimmed picos need extra alkalinity to maintain ideal pH due to organic acids generated during animal/bacterial metabolism. A skimmed system will remove proteins and particles before they are metabolized in the system, resulting in less internal acid production. I think the candy coral is surviving but not plating at the current time, I would suggest getting one of these two part additives from
www.aquaticeco.com and using them twice weekly. If you get C-Balance, the one I use, your pico will need right at two capfulls of each additive weekly, with the calcium and alk liquids being dosed on alternate days and added in the morning just after lights "on".
The soft corals are going to look good no matter what, as the water change imports give them enough to run on. Your stonies, to actually grow upwards and sideways, will need alk support or they will just stay as-is and may eventually recede all the way. It will take time though, as the water changes are keeping the candy coral alive but not necessarily plating as fast as it could be. When the dosing is brought up, Id superglue or wedge that candy coral about midway up on the rocks---a little bright light will open it up as well.
Clearly your system is running great as is, but these added tweaks might be just what you are looking for. Good luck and post back when you can!
Brandon Mason
