bubbletip anemone
- Thread starter carolinaclown
- Start date
High quality lighting, high quality water, moderate alternating water currents are necessary, plus a good book, such as Sprung and Delbeek's The Reef Aquarium volume 2.
I don't think any anemones are EASY to keep. Buy or borrow this book. They are complicated animals that wil move in your tank to suit their needs.
if you get it dialed in right, though, and know how to take care of them, they'll breed like rabbits.
Mitch
I don't think any anemones are EASY to keep. Buy or borrow this book. They are complicated animals that wil move in your tank to suit their needs.
if you get it dialed in right, though, and know how to take care of them, they'll breed like rabbits.
Mitch
Uh yeh, what the guy said above.
Pristine water is very important. The occasional feeding of the bubble tip anemone is also important. Well, important to me because that's how I gauge whether or not it's feeling healthy or not. I get worried when it doesnt eat, but it's also supposed to have some beneficial symbionts inside of it also working photosynthetically.
Oh, and they will initally float around in your tank and sting whatever they come in contact with. My green star polyps are still recovering from the initial trauma. But once theyve found a nice spot, they only move to shift and maximally expose themselves to the light when it comes on.
I have 2 BTA's (in day 35 of my first 10 gal nano reef) that I got from Dr Mac at a WAMAS meeting. Theyre not dead yet so I must be doing something right so far. Now if only the clowns would fully adopt one as a host. They sleep in one at night and play with the other during the day. I think theyre thoroughly confused.
Pristine water is very important. The occasional feeding of the bubble tip anemone is also important. Well, important to me because that's how I gauge whether or not it's feeling healthy or not. I get worried when it doesnt eat, but it's also supposed to have some beneficial symbionts inside of it also working photosynthetically.
Oh, and they will initally float around in your tank and sting whatever they come in contact with. My green star polyps are still recovering from the initial trauma. But once theyve found a nice spot, they only move to shift and maximally expose themselves to the light when it comes on.
I have 2 BTA's (in day 35 of my first 10 gal nano reef) that I got from Dr Mac at a WAMAS meeting. Theyre not dead yet so I must be doing something right so far. Now if only the clowns would fully adopt one as a host. They sleep in one at night and play with the other during the day. I think theyre thoroughly confused.
Bubble tip are supposed to be the "easiest" of all anemones to keep. However, as carpenter pointed out, that is somewhat of a misnomer- anemones in general are more difficult than some polyps, as they require the best conditions to thrive. You may want to wait a while before you try this, keep a tank running for 6mths (at least) with no trouble, and, from what I have experienced, anemones have a 0 tolerance policy when it comes to nitrate. That being said, you'll know it when they are happy in the environment you provide.
Bubble tip anemones do not have a zero tolorence for nitrates. Lower nitrates are better for them and I am not reccomending that you allow them to live in nitrate filled water. But the statement that they have zero tolorence is hogwash.
Also while they do need flow and will move to an area of flow that suits them if you have such an area in your tank; alternating flow is not needed. THey will grow and divide with out alternating flow.
THey do require reasonable lighting. Feeding them once or twice a week helps. They do better in tanks that have been set up for a while. An yes they are one of the easiest to keep and trive in tanks. The term easiest is relative to other anemones, not to easy to keep.
Ray
Also while they do need flow and will move to an area of flow that suits them if you have such an area in your tank; alternating flow is not needed. THey will grow and divide with out alternating flow.
THey do require reasonable lighting. Feeding them once or twice a week helps. They do better in tanks that have been set up for a while. An yes they are one of the easiest to keep and trive in tanks. The term easiest is relative to other anemones, not to easy to keep.
Ray
Carpenter, the more I think about it, there's too many variables to blame the nitrate only, but that is still my main suspect. The MH's where 250 watt, tank was 45g tall, however, this was when canister filters where the rage, no dsb- crushed coral. This was mid 80's when I tried it, but I do remember the nitrates being in the .25 range (that is why I suspect it). Turned me off to trying to keep anemones again, now I do want to try mushrooms (I know, they are technically anemones too, but this is a completely different system that I have more faith in).
Ya know, thats why keeping notes comes in handy! I was looking at the notes from back then, looking at my current tanks s.g., and shaking my head (as well as mentioning some rather disturbing phrases at an LFS that helped to set that tank up!). Maybe I should give a bubbletip another chance someday.
carolinaclown:
Also, aneomnes are difficult to care for. I wish I had known about this board before I killed mine. I will not attempt one until I can set up a tank that will meet the specific needs of the anemone. They require high lighting, good water parameters and moderate to high water flow. Keep in mind that anemones can live longer than humans in the wild. Three months is no milestone is claiming successful husbandry of this creature. I would say that many people believe that anemones are best left to the experts. I am not sure if I agree, but I definitely think that they are not for the beginner, even though they are advertised that way in most LFSs.
Ernie
Also, aneomnes are difficult to care for. I wish I had known about this board before I killed mine. I will not attempt one until I can set up a tank that will meet the specific needs of the anemone. They require high lighting, good water parameters and moderate to high water flow. Keep in mind that anemones can live longer than humans in the wild. Three months is no milestone is claiming successful husbandry of this creature. I would say that many people believe that anemones are best left to the experts. I am not sure if I agree, but I definitely think that they are not for the beginner, even though they are advertised that way in most LFSs.
Ernie
"Anemonies are difficult to care for"...
I think that this is a relitave term.
If you have the lighting "MH flame throwers"
If you have the current "good water flow"
If you have the water quality "DSB whatever"
they are easy!
My Seabae is 24" across now.. and is a total monster.. He started out as a petco 4" bleached anemone!
But for those people with low end setups and poor water quality.. or just unexperienced reefkeepers.. Yes.. they are difficult to care for.
With the proper knowledge and setup you could about keep anything! However it is a relitive term as I said earlier
You have to know the husbandry before you take it home.
carolinaclown is on the right road to learning how to keep one of these animals. Good luck.
Randall
I think that this is a relitave term.
If you have the lighting "MH flame throwers"
If you have the current "good water flow"
If you have the water quality "DSB whatever"
they are easy!
My Seabae is 24" across now.. and is a total monster.. He started out as a petco 4" bleached anemone!
But for those people with low end setups and poor water quality.. or just unexperienced reefkeepers.. Yes.. they are difficult to care for.
With the proper knowledge and setup you could about keep anything! However it is a relitive term as I said earlier
You have to know the husbandry before you take it home.
carolinaclown is on the right road to learning how to keep one of these animals. Good luck.
Randall
If the bubble-tip anemone you plan to purchase was
aquacultured locally then you probably have
the highest chance of success and will not
be destroying some habitat somewhere in asia
south.
Now assuming you follow all the recommendations
spelled out on this thread and from reading all the recommended books, etc. you may still want to
think twice before keeping a large anemone like
the bubble-tip or carpet for the following reasons:
1) You fail for some reason, are out the $$$/time and decide to leave the aquarium hobby forever. OK maybe the last part is a bit extreme.
2) You're successful and the grows, killing everything else in your tank, doubles every couple of years and you flood your local market with anemone buds.
Just so we set the record straight, I've had a green bubble-tip for four years now in a 55 gallon tank and he (according to definition given to me by Dr. Shimek) has quadruppled in size and has killed numbers mushroom anemones and SPS coral.
Follow link in signature for look the darn thing
that takes up at least 1/3 of my tank now.
Good luck!
Scott
aquacultured locally then you probably have
the highest chance of success and will not
be destroying some habitat somewhere in asia
south.
Now assuming you follow all the recommendations
spelled out on this thread and from reading all the recommended books, etc. you may still want to
think twice before keeping a large anemone like
the bubble-tip or carpet for the following reasons:
1) You fail for some reason, are out the $$$/time and decide to leave the aquarium hobby forever. OK maybe the last part is a bit extreme.
2) You're successful and the grows, killing everything else in your tank, doubles every couple of years and you flood your local market with anemone buds.
Just so we set the record straight, I've had a green bubble-tip for four years now in a 55 gallon tank and he (according to definition given to me by Dr. Shimek) has quadruppled in size and has killed numbers mushroom anemones and SPS coral.
Follow link in signature for look the darn thing
that takes up at least 1/3 of my tank now.
Good luck!
Scott
Sorry Ray,
I disagree with you. Unidirectional flow will cause an anemone to atrophy on one side, and it will move accordingly. The leeward side will not recieve sufficient circulation and detritus will build up and cause further complications.
Mitch
I disagree with you. Unidirectional flow will cause an anemone to atrophy on one side, and it will move accordingly. The leeward side will not recieve sufficient circulation and detritus will build up and cause further complications.
Mitch
I must defend my opionion on the nitrates with what I have experienced. They where in metal halide lit tanks, the nitrates where less than .25ppm, fed 1x weekly, yet the anemones still failed to thrive. No other factors could be found, temp 78 deg f, no nitrite/ammonia, but there was a small presence of phosphate (could this have done it?) salinity 1.022, no other corals sharing tank.
My first Rose BTA was about 5 months ago. I had planned on that anemone from the start of the new tank and once it had been running for 5 months and was setteled in I started my search. Now my rose and two goldstripes get along great! Is the jewel of the system.
I knew the anemonie's lighting and current reqirements and the rose has moved 1" from it's origional placement about 5 months ago. It has trippled in size is my favorite anemone! Some day it will split and I will have two
It is 2/3's the way down a 105g tall with a MH 250 Ushio HQI above it. The origional lamp was a 250w Iwasaki the HQI was a recient upgrade. Current is medium and it's tenticles are always waving in the waters currents. I don't directly feed as the clowns give it large chunks of food during feeding. If I did not have the clowns I would feed it 2-3 times a week, maybe 1/4th cube or 1/2 cube.
Good luck with yours! I hope my little story about my experience with my BTA has been some help.
Randall
PS regarding Nitrates.. That is a disputed topic. I have read that nitrates do encourage xoonalthe growth but may inhibit photosynthisis. Studies have shown that coalite skelital growth on stony corals has actualy slowed while xoonalthe groth increased with higher nitrates. Suggesting reduced photosynthisis. As with anyting moderation is a good thing
This information was refered to in the "Aquarium Corals by Eric Borneman" book.
I knew the anemonie's lighting and current reqirements and the rose has moved 1" from it's origional placement about 5 months ago. It has trippled in size is my favorite anemone! Some day it will split and I will have two
It is 2/3's the way down a 105g tall with a MH 250 Ushio HQI above it. The origional lamp was a 250w Iwasaki the HQI was a recient upgrade. Current is medium and it's tenticles are always waving in the waters currents. I don't directly feed as the clowns give it large chunks of food during feeding. If I did not have the clowns I would feed it 2-3 times a week, maybe 1/4th cube or 1/2 cube.
Good luck with yours! I hope my little story about my experience with my BTA has been some help.
Randall
PS regarding Nitrates.. That is a disputed topic. I have read that nitrates do encourage xoonalthe growth but may inhibit photosynthisis. Studies have shown that coalite skelital growth on stony corals has actualy slowed while xoonalthe groth increased with higher nitrates. Suggesting reduced photosynthisis. As with anyting moderation is a good thing
Nitrates are not a problem with anemones,as long as they are not through the roof. As stated before,anemones are consumers of nitrate. They directly eat the feces of the fish that inhabit them. This is to feed the zooxanthellae. High phosphates are a problem with any reef inhabitant,but are worse for stony corals and coralline algae.
It is true that BTAs tolerate lower light levels than other anemones. Many people have success keeping BTAs under 110watts of PC light,with splitting reported as well. IMO 200watts should be the min.(I'm gauging this on a 55-75 gallon tank with medium placement.Of course more light is needed on larger,deeper tanks). I currently run a 55 gallon tank with 380 watts of VHO(and had BTAs split under 192 watts of PC). I started with one BTA and now have four. This is over the course of a little over a year.
BTAs do like unidirectional currents. They are naturally found on ocean bottoms flowing in the one way flow of water,where food is brought along with the current.
I believe that the problems occur from the collection,transport and LFS or online store handling. DrMac sounds like the best place to buy for two reasons. First,DrMac sells captive bred anemones(hardier and environmentally sound). Second,He keeps them the way they are ment to be housed until sale and transport. Therefore cutting down on stess or damage. I don't want to forget to mention that inexperience is also a factor. But that can be remedied with knowledge and first trying to keep less difficult species with success.
High light,med to high current,and good STABLE water quality. Plus a hardy feeding from time to time. SG is best at 1.025-1.027 for anemone health. Temp of from 79-83 degrees F is optimal. 3watts or higher per gallon with a good PAR rating. Plus the addition of iodine.
It is true that BTAs tolerate lower light levels than other anemones. Many people have success keeping BTAs under 110watts of PC light,with splitting reported as well. IMO 200watts should be the min.(I'm gauging this on a 55-75 gallon tank with medium placement.Of course more light is needed on larger,deeper tanks). I currently run a 55 gallon tank with 380 watts of VHO(and had BTAs split under 192 watts of PC). I started with one BTA and now have four. This is over the course of a little over a year.
BTAs do like unidirectional currents. They are naturally found on ocean bottoms flowing in the one way flow of water,where food is brought along with the current.
I believe that the problems occur from the collection,transport and LFS or online store handling. DrMac sounds like the best place to buy for two reasons. First,DrMac sells captive bred anemones(hardier and environmentally sound). Second,He keeps them the way they are ment to be housed until sale and transport. Therefore cutting down on stess or damage. I don't want to forget to mention that inexperience is also a factor. But that can be remedied with knowledge and first trying to keep less difficult species with success.
High light,med to high current,and good STABLE water quality. Plus a hardy feeding from time to time. SG is best at 1.025-1.027 for anemone health. Temp of from 79-83 degrees F is optimal. 3watts or higher per gallon with a good PAR rating. Plus the addition of iodine.
Just a little side note.
Different Anemones need different exhibits, setups how ever you choose to call it.
This is often to the Aquarist advantage.
I want my rock to house coral, so I have a sandbed knowing that my Long Tentacle Anemone does not like to move on rocks. I also have a large rock jetting out to try and prevent my LTA from moving across the sand bed and stinging other corals. I did however allow the anemone to choose the area of the tank he prefers (Lighting, current, etc.)
Regardless of the type of Anemone you choose make sure you tank is mature. Read evrything you can and even then it will not be enough.
Good luck.
Different Anemones need different exhibits, setups how ever you choose to call it.
This is often to the Aquarist advantage.
I want my rock to house coral, so I have a sandbed knowing that my Long Tentacle Anemone does not like to move on rocks. I also have a large rock jetting out to try and prevent my LTA from moving across the sand bed and stinging other corals. I did however allow the anemone to choose the area of the tank he prefers (Lighting, current, etc.)
Regardless of the type of Anemone you choose make sure you tank is mature. Read evrything you can and even then it will not be enough.
Good luck.
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