how dificalt are thay to keep i am looking at taking out a fax face that has goten to big for my 72 and puting in 3 dispare anthias but marein center has a good selection of them and next to almost all they say harder then most. will i be wasting my $$$$ trying to keep them. one lfs in my are told me it was just a wast of money but they also told my that when i got a cristmass wrass, that i have hade for a few month know i really love the way they look out of all the anthias at http://themarinecenter.com/specials/ witch one should i go for. and one last thing you all dont think my coral beuty would give them a hard time????? thanks for the help
anthias need some good info on them
- Thread starter Neal358
- Start date
- Location
- Virginia
I have never had luck with anthias. They always seem to do fine, and then one by one, they slowly waste away, no matter what I offer them.
I've had one for several months now that's doing fine in my 72. It eats like a pig. I do know that you have to feed them more often than other fish. I feed twice a day. I'm getting ready to move and I have to tear the tank down. I just hope he survives the move.
I'm not sure if what I've heard is true, but I've read in more than one place that the reason that they don't do well in aquariums is because people keep only one. They(the authors) recommend keeping a small school. Once agian, I'm not sure if this is true or not, but it's something to think about.
The only anthias I have ever had never ate and starved. After mine died I heard they were fared better with at least 3 in a system. I also read an article by Scott Michaels that said they needed to be fed 3 times per day. Good luck....they are beautiful fish though.
Neal358,
Anthias can be tricky...heres a few suggestions.
For a 72, get 1 male, and 4 females.
Choose from, P. squamipinnis, P. bartletorrum, P. Huchtii, or P. bicolor.
You could also go with a pair of P. pleurotania (AKA Squarespot anthias) (the male has the square, the female does not).
Dispar, purple queen (tuka), tiger queen (lori), purple (pascalus), princess (smithvanisi) and any others in the Mirolabrichthys (those with a protruding upper lip) except for Bartletts, are very difficult to keep for any length of time.
You will need to feed them at least 3 times a day, and it is imperative to get them onto frozen mysis as quickly as possible.
Some people advocate only keeping one to a system...This works fine though I personally have had success with keeping groups.
Make sure you know which are males, and which are females of whichever species you choose.
Alternatively get 5-6 females and watch one turn into a male.
[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Jase ]
Anthias can be tricky...heres a few suggestions.
For a 72, get 1 male, and 4 females.
Choose from, P. squamipinnis, P. bartletorrum, P. Huchtii, or P. bicolor.
You could also go with a pair of P. pleurotania (AKA Squarespot anthias) (the male has the square, the female does not).
Dispar, purple queen (tuka), tiger queen (lori), purple (pascalus), princess (smithvanisi) and any others in the Mirolabrichthys (those with a protruding upper lip) except for Bartletts, are very difficult to keep for any length of time.
You will need to feed them at least 3 times a day, and it is imperative to get them onto frozen mysis as quickly as possible.
Some people advocate only keeping one to a system...This works fine though I personally have had success with keeping groups.
Make sure you know which are males, and which are females of whichever species you choose.
Alternatively get 5-6 females and watch one turn into a male.
[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Jase ]
Here is a direct link to Scott Michael's talk in the #reefs chatroom:
http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/s_michael_030401.html
IMHO, 4 anthias is just too much for a 72, even if you have NO liverock...:-/ If you have no other fish, perhaps 3 Sunburst anthias would be appropriate.
HTH
James
[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: jamesw ]
http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/s_michael_030401.html
IMHO, 4 anthias is just too much for a 72, even if you have NO liverock...:-/ If you have no other fish, perhaps 3 Sunburst anthias would be appropriate.
HTH
James
[ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: jamesw ]
I kept a single hawaiian fancy for 4 months. It ate like a hog. I fed three times a day and it would gorge every time and beg for more. Absolutely gorgeous fish that had a lot of personality and wass my favorite in the tank. So having said that, when I moved two weeks ago, you can guess which fish out of my tank was the only not to make it. I was really upset when I found it in the container. It was alive when we got to the new house, but died while I was setting the tank back up. I have read that they are to be kept in pairs, but the kind I had was rare and I couldn't find another. My baby regal took to it like a sibling and so I guess that helped alot. They were pretty much inseperable. Since the loss of the anthia, the tangs hides under the LR for 90% of the day. So it really seems like I lost two fish becasue I never get to see him anymore now. Really frustrating, but as soon as I find another, I am getting it.
Here is a very good guide for ALL of the Anthias. Pseudanthias evansi Range: From the Indian Ocean east to the Cocos Islands Size: 5 Inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in reef type community set up Reef: Yes General Remarks: One of the more difficult species available. Best if kept in a reef tank of 100 gallons or more, in groups of 3 or more, with one being male. Frequent feeding of 2-3 times a day is necessary. Try frozen Mysis shrimp, or frozen plankton Hardiness: 2 Pseudanthias bicolor Range: East Indo Pacific to Hawaiian Islands Size: 5 Inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in reef type community set up. Reef: Yes General Remarks: A hardy species, but younger specimens are more adaptable to the aquarium. Likes to be kept in groups of 3 or more consisting of one male. Can lose color in the aquarium, which can be avoided with use of beta carotene, or Vitamin C. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, or frozen plankton. Hardiness: 4 Pseudanthias huchtii Range: West Indo Pacific, mainly Phillipines, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Size: 4.5 inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in aggressive community set up Reef: Yes, with caution General Remarks: One of the more aggressive species, would be advisable to be kept as single individuals instead of groups, like most Anthias species. Not suggested to be kept with smaller tank mates, that might be more timid, as this Anthias might show aggression to them as well. Can be kept in a reef type set up, however only with caution to other fish. Best if kept in tanks of at least 100 gallons or more. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, or frozen Plankton Hardiness: 4 Pseudanthias squampinnis Jewel Lyretail Size: 4.7 Inches Range: Red Sea to Fiji Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in reef type set ups Reef: Yes General Remarks: A schooling Anthias, where groups consist of anywhere from a few individuals to as much as a few thousand. Schools mainly consist of females,and juveniles with non territorial males on the outer fringe of the school, and territorial males towards the middle. Groups can exist without a male however,at which point a female will turn into a male when needed. An aggressive species, best if kept in small groups only in tanks of 150 gallons of more. In smaller tanks of 60 gallons or more, can be kept in groups of 1 male, and 2 or 3 females. This species is more adaptable to prepared foods than other Anthias, however it is recommended that the diet be kept varied, for color retention. Offer Mysis shrimp, frozen plankton, and other small food items. Hardiness: 4 Pseudanthias tuka Purple Queen Range: Indonesia, Solomon Islands Size: 4.5 inches Compatibility: Best kept in larger reef community set ups Reef: Yes Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms General Remarks: Although beautiful, this is a very delicate species, not recommended for the novice, or for tanks less than 180 gallons. Best if kept in groups consisting of one male, and a couple of females. Usually does not adapt well to prepared foods, although offering frozen Mysis Shrimp may be of benefit. Hardiness: 2 Pseudanthias pleurotaenia Square Box Range: Phillipines, south to Australia, to Samoa Size: 7.5 inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in larger reef community type set ups Reef: With caution General Remarks: This large Anthias species requires a tank of no less than 60 gallons for individual fish, and no less than 100 gallons for a trio. A deep water species, they favor lower light conditions, and a lot of hiding places for it to dive into are required. Smaller, less mature specimens adapt well to the aquarium, though will hide for the first few days of acclimation. Best if it is the only Anthias being kept as they will act aggressively towards other species. It has been noticed, that they will dull in color if kept in a brightly lit tank: this is not an immediate indication that the fish is not doing well. As with most of the Anthias, frequent feeding is suggested, at least twice a day. Offer small live Guppies, frozen Mysis shrimp, Plankton, or live Ghost shrimp Hardiness: 3 Pseudanthias lori Tiger Tuka , Tiger Queen Range: Indo Pacific Size:4.5 inches Compatibility: Recommended for reef type community set ups Reef: Yes Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms General Remarks: Moderately hardy, the Tiger Tuka is a nice non aggressive species of Anthias. This Anthias requires a lot of hiding places, for it to be able to dart into, when it feels threatened. They should be kept in tanks no smaller than 60 gallons, as individuals, or in a tank of no less than 100 gallons for a group of three or more. If kept in groups, it is advisable to keep 1 male to 3 or more females. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, or frozen Plankton Hardiness: 3 Serranocirrhitus latus Sunburst Anthias, Fathead Anthias Range: Indo Pacific Size: 5 Inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Best if kept in non aggressive reef type community set ups Reef: Yes General Remarks: This is a very shy timid species, requiring lots of hiding places in the aquarium. Overhangs, and caves constructed in the reef aquarium would be highly recommended as well, as this fish does not do well in brightly lit tanks. This fish is not recommended, as it adapts poorly to tanks with a lot of other fish. Usually tanks with Gobies, Blennies, Cardinals, and Dragonets would be the best fish to be placed with this fish. If you wish to keep this fish, it would be advisable to keep it as an individual, in a tank more devoted to invertebrates than fish. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, Plankton, and other small food items. Hardiness: 2 Pseudanthias kashiwae – Now cooperi Tricolor Anthias Range: From East Africa, to Great Barrier Reef Size: 5.5 Inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Community reef type set up recommended Reef: Yes General Remarks: One of the less demanding of the Anthias species, they can be kept in small groups in tanks of 100 gallons or more. As with most of the Anthias keep 1 male in the group, as they will show aggression to other males. Provide nice cliffs, and overhangs, along with lots of hiding places. Usually prefers lower light conditions, but will eventually tolerate normal reef tank conditions after time. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, Plankton, and other small food items. Hardiness: 3 Pseudanthias ventrallis Longfin Anthias Range: Indo Pacific Size: 2 to 2.5 inches Diet: Zooplankton, and other small organisms Compatibility: Reef type community set up recommended Reef: Yes General Remarks: More of a rock hugging Anthias, not prone to really venture out in to the open like more of its conspecifics. A deep water species that is very shy, it requires more spots in the tank with subdued lighting. Best kept in schools of 4 or more, with one being male. This species is not the hardiest, but is definitely one of the more stunning in coloration. However it is one of the species less apt to adapt well to captivity. Offer frozen Mysis shrimp, Plankton, and other small food items. Hardiness: 2
Scott Michael says you can keep 1 Anthias in a 30 gallon tank, he also says that up to 10 females in a 75 gallon is a possibility, so I would think 2 or 3 in a 72 gallon aquarium wouldn't be a problem depending on your bioload and filtration system. I kept 2 Barlett's and 2 Lyretail in a 55 gallon for over a year without any problems. Gave them to Aquarium City when I upgraded my tank. . I currently have a pair of sunset anthias (Pseudanthias parvirostris) in my 100 gallon. Beautiful fish and well worth the extra work.(extra feedings...etc.)
I wouldn't recommend the squarespot because of their size
I wouldn't recommend the squarespot because of their size
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