why not add another smartlight ? I have 110 watts of pc's on my 37 gallon. Same footprint but taller than a 29 and my tank and softies do fine.
I am way to poor to afford metal halide yet lol
_________________ Mercedes Benz C Class
I put 2x55 watt PCs on my 29g and have been very happy with it. Provides more than enough light for me, but I don't keep any SPS. I knew nothing about lighting and ballasts when i rigged mine up either, but if you can get some help from a knowledgable LFS (as I did) it will make the project pretty easy.
ChoimoReef,
Many use 2x55 PC's on 29's with good success with soft and some LPS corals. You could, as Rich suggests, just add another CSL or All-Glass PC striplight; Plug-n-play, so to speak.
For a good discussion of the different types of lights see: http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=PA&Category_Code=Lighting
PA also has descriptions and info of the different types of lighting available, including the CSL strips.
You can also check out the lighting kits from AH Supply. http://ahsupply.com/
You could certainly use Metal Halide if you desire more light. Heat is a real issue and the MH light needs to be well above the tank, at least 8-10". Resting any light, especially MH, on a glass top can create waay too much heat. For PC's or VHO, if you are going to put the lights on top, use a piece of commercial lighting eggcrate material, available at Lowe's or Home Depot. This allows appropriate evaporation for cooling and improves the heat situation.
HTH,
Dick
I run a 250w MH and 2 NO actinics over my 29g. I built the hood 12" tall and the MH bulb is about 10.5" from the H2O surface. My temp stays about 78-80F with a 3" radio shack fan blowing on the water..
A pendant would work well too. You wouldn't need the glass top. Just run with it open. This would allow for more evaporation to cool the tank. Plus I have heard of glass tops shattering under MH because of the heat.
But, I guess it all depends on what you want to keep. If your not wanting SPS and higher light loving animals then I would just stick with more PCs. Or even go a 4 bulb VHO setup. This would give you 300w of light over your tank which is plenty of light for just about anything in an 18" deep tank.
I run a 250 watt 10kK mogul based ushio metal halide bulb over my 29 gallon tank. The lighting is in a PFO pendant that also includes two 28 watt PC actinics. I used to keep SPS in the tank but after an unfortunate case of RTN, I'm switching it over to BTA's now.
When I added MH to my tank, I experienced some die off of some sponges (hitchhikers), as well as an electricity bill bloom....
Other than that, there was a slight bloom of various lower life forms, and some cyano I had went away. I had changed some of my additive schedule at the same time, so I'm not sure which changes caused which effects.
(And the electricity may have been due to the A/C... Dunno.)
I used 2 55watt PC's over a 40 gallon and kept softies no prob. IMHO, I would get the 250 halide in a 10k. Then when you get your big tank (which you will)you will have one less to buy
...
I just used the PC's to accent the halides when I moved up to a 90.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by ChoimoReef:
<strong>ok, most likely I'll find go with a 250w mh setup.</strong><hr></blockquote>
What type of corals are you trying to keep? If your keeping soft corals, 250w MH over a 29 may be a bit much. (IMO)
If you plan to upgrade your tank to a bigger size in the near future, see what your lighting needs will be and buy that for the 29, if you like.
I currently use a 10,000K (german bulb) 175w MH and 2-28w PC actinics over my 29. The bulb is 4" from the surface.