Lights Burning Out Fast - PLEASE help!

[PCB]

I have a standard 75 gallon reef tank with 4x96w PC's. The tank has been running for 1.5 years and I have had to change several bulbs 2 times because they burn out or crack. The last one I had only lasted 3 months and it cracked. Someone recomended that I put a glass top on the tank to avoid getting moisture/condensation on the bulbs and this would stop the problem. Is this the solution or should I install fans first to try to solve the problem??? This lighting problem is getting expensive! Any and all recomendations are greatly appreciated!

 

[Dawlfandav]

How high are you lights above the water? If they are getting wet this could be the reason for premature failure.

 

[Chucker]

I'd also check your wiring and the sockets the bulbs plug in to. Make sure you don't have any shorts, cracked sockets, frayed wires, etc.

 

[PCB]

The lights are about one foot off the water. There is some (very little) water spots on the lights and reflectors, but very little to speak of. Do you think putting a glass or plastic cover will make significant difference in the amount of light that gets to the corals?

The sockets and wires are in good condition. The ballast, wires, sockets, etc... are all fairly new (about one year).

[ July 12, 2001: Message edited by: PCB ]

 

[Joe_B]

If these are CSL PCs contact Petra at CSL and explain whats happening. I had two 96watt SmartBulbs fall apart after two weeks, I called and thay replaced them at no charge. GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!

Good Luck,
Joe

 

[PCB]

Unfortunatley, they are not from CSL. Based on the replies, seems like a few people have had this problem, is there some sort of defect in the bulbs? Back to my main point, will putting a glass top on the tank help or will it filter too much light?

 

[FishGeeek]

I am in the same boat. I have 4x96 over my tank also. One ballast drives White lights and the other drives the Blue's. My white lights never burn out, but my Blue's are burning out or cracking every 3-6 months. I think my ballast has gone bad. I plan on replacing it soon.

HTH
Brian

 

[kangol99]

You might want to check the location of the clips that's holding the bulbs, if they're close to the end of the bulb and kinda tight that might cause the bulb to crack.

 

[MattM]

8 times out of 10 it's the clips.
It's OK if they're tight, but they need to be in the right place.

One should be on the socket end no more than 2-3" from the socket and the other should be right over the "bridge" between the two halves. If the latter clip is not over the bridge, it can flex the tubes slightly putting stress on the bridge.

 

[PCB]

Matt, what do you mean when you say "bridge". Is that at the end of the lights (where they U shape is)?

 

[MattM]

If we're talking about Custom Sea Life bulbs, the "bridge" is the part that connects the two tubes:

If your bulb is the type where the end is a genuine "U" shape, then forget everything I said.

 

[PCB]

Matt- thanks for the clarification regarding the "bridge". Does anyone else have any thoughts or recommendations?

 

[Joe_B]

Some PC bulbs ship with a plastic spacer between the two tubes. The spacer can be placed (slid) where you put the hanger clips to "relieve the pressure". In two years of power compact use (96w) I have had only one crack and the reason was I lost the spacer while cleaning salt spray from the bulbs. After reinstalling and turning the lights on 'POP' it was then that I realized I had lost the spacer.

Good Luck,
Joe

 

[MattM]

Joe -

We've found the spacers to be relatively ineffective. The older ones on the Panasonic bulbs were little clear plastic clips that regularly fell out or shifted. The newer bulbs, from China, just have a small cube of white plastic held in place with a droplet of glue. They're even worse and are often MIA when you first open the box.

For this reason we recommend to our customers not to rely on the spacers, but to place the clip right over the bridge to prevent tube flexing.

 

[Joe_B]

Just relating my experience with retro PC kits. I have built close to a dozen hoods using power compact bulbs (Panasonic and CSL) and have had only the one crack at the bridge. I have experimented with prying the clips open and using small wire ties to hold the bulb in the clip being sure not to over tighten the ties. It seems to work OK, no melting or anything like that, also has added benefit of holding bulbs in the clip if hood top is closed to hard...ooppps!!!!

Peace,
Joe