ro/di tds 23ppm

[soupiemelody]

I just started about a month now and bought a used ro/di 75gpd system. I decided I wanted to do it right the first time. Owner said he used it only for about 400 gallons. I waited and fill the 75 g tank plus sump. 4 weeks later I see all sort of algae and sand turning red. I bought a tds meter finally and my water is 46ppm and after ro/di 23ppm. Should I change all 3 filters (micron, sedi, di)? its a 4 stage.

 

[soupiemelody]

 

[Skaters216]

Yes change them all and the DI resin also that what will give you zero on the Tds meter. You should always use RoDi water that has zero Tds

 

[soupiemelody]

Yes change them all and the DI resin also that what will give you zero on the Tds meter. You should always use rock water that has zero Tds

are the cartridges standard or do I have to look for specific from the manufacturer I have.

 

[Skaters216]

The red looks like cyano

 

[Skaters216]

There are ones with different heights but they sell complete kits with the DI Resin also you need that ,at Bulk reef supply. Measure the old cartridges

 

[theMeat]

Mostly all cartridges are 10 inches. Vivid aquarium has some good vids on ro/di maintenance. At bulk reef supply you'll get good stuff that comes in a matched package at a good price. Once you change your filters, if you have hi #'s coming out of the membrane, before the di resin, you need a membrane too. The membrane should take out about 95% of the tds, and if not you're gonna go through di resin quick, so it's cheaper to replace the membrane and get it working right. Make sure your membrane matches your flow restrictor, and whenever you replace your membrane, it's a good idea to change your flow restrictor, and if you have one your shut off valve too.

 

[soupiemelody]

Mostly all cartridges are 10 inches. Vivid aquarium has some good vids on ro/di maintenance. At bulk reef supply you'll get good stuff that comes in a matched package at a good price. Once you change your filters, if you have hi #'s coming out of the membrane, before the di resin, you need a membrane too. The membrane should take out about 95% of the tds, and if not you're gonna go through di resin quick, so it's cheaper to replace the membrane and get it working right. Make sure your membrane matches your flow restrictor

ok thanks, how can I check if the membrane is good?

 

[theMeat]

Once you change your filters, disconnect the tube that goes from the membrane where it goes intot the di resin. Let it run a few minutes and check with tds meter. Let's say your tap water is 100 tds, your tds number there should be no higher than about 5. After water goes through filters and membrane tds should be 95% removed. Carbon removes chlorine, chlorine kills membranes, and most LI water is loaded with it. So change your carbon regularly

 

[soupiemelody]

Once you change your filters, disconnect the tube that goes from the membrane to the di resin. Let it run a few minutes and check with tds meter. Let's say your tap water is 100 tds, your tds number there should be no higher than about 5.

ok got it thanks.. i just ordered the 3 filters

 

[theMeat]

Did your di resin get dark/change color? Because with hi numbers coming out as product water you most likely need

 

[soupiemelody]

Did your di resin get dark/change color? Because with hi numbers coming out as product water you most likely need

its orange in color idk if thats the original or what color its supposed to be as I bought the system used.

 

[soupiemelody]

getting 8ppm after membrane and still 8ppm after resin smh. I changed all except the membrane.

 

[edd]

if you have 8 i would assume your membrane is good.
are you sure its going through di, some units have a valve to bypass di if you want to make drinking water.

 

[soupiemelody]

Going to double check