Pseudanthias randalli, Randall's Anthias

[Anonymous]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

 

[Jacky W]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

I have more interest on the anthias in the lower left corner :twisted:

 

[Anonymous]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

I have more interest on the anthias in the lower left corner :twisted:

The ventralis?

 

[Jacky W]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

I have more interest on the anthias in the lower left corner :twisted:

The ventralis?

Yes! You' re great that you can keep it(them). Can you share your experience / success with it?

 

[Anonymous]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

I have more interest on the anthias in the lower left corner :twisted:

The ventralis?

Yes! You' re great that you can keep it(them). Can you share your experience / success with it?

Thanks Jacky,

I should preface my comments by mentioning that I do work at a public aquarium and would not recommend these fish for the vast majority of advanced aquarists. The biggest challenge in keeping them is that they require a LOT of time, both in food preparation and the actual feeding.

My experience has been rather hit or miss with them. Received 2 females and 1 male to try them and they all are still going strong in this tank. After a few months of the first 3 doing well I ordered 15 more. 14 of those did not last a month. There are clearly some differences in the handling of these fish during the COC, and they do not handle stress well at all.

We QT'd them for 6 weeks in a tank with lots of live rock, bare bottom, and airstones for circulation. There was no mechanical filtration or skimmer because I did not want the live food I was feeding them pulled out. They should be offered small live crustaceans initially--brine shrimp (enriched), live mysis if you can get it, tigger pods, etc. They will also take cyclop-eeze pretty quickly. The more often you can feed them the better, so if you can keep the live food in suspension all day long it will be great. You probably won't even see them for the first month or so as they are very shy. Don't bug them by lifting up rocks or looking for them as it will just prolong their acclimation.

Fortunately I did not need to treat these fish for parasites, but if you do they will tolerate therapeutic copper or chloroquine treatments. After 6 weeks or so I started offering them fish eggs, as well as the smallest frozen mysis I could find. You can also try cutting mysis into small pieces. Now I feed them clam and prawn that is either finely chopped or cheese grated, enriched live adult brine, arcti-pods, and capelin eggs. They will also take live mysis on occasion. They still will not accept frozen mysis on a regular basis. The live brine is added 8 times a day with an auto feeder, and I hand feed the other stuff 3-4 times a day. Tankmates are Randall's and Lori's anthias, a firefish, 2 dartfish, and 2 tilefish. I have also kept them with Tuka anthias without problems. More aggressive anthias like lyretails and sunsets will pester them.

HTH,
Matt

 

[Jacky W]

I'm not very good at photos, but here is one of our male Randall's anthias in its 300ish gallon tank. I can list husbandry info if anyone is interested.

I have more interest on the anthias in the lower left corner :twisted:

The ventralis?

Yes! You' re great that you can keep it(them). Can you share your experience / success with it?

Thanks Jacky,

I should preface my comments by mentioning that I do work at a public aquarium and would not recommend these fish for the vast majority of advanced aquarists. The biggest challenge in keeping them is that they require a LOT of time, both in food preparation and the actual feeding.

My experience has been rather hit or miss with them. Received 2 females and 1 male to try them and they all are still going strong in this tank. After a few months of the first 3 doing well I ordered 15 more. 14 of those did not last a month. There are clearly some differences in the handling of these fish during the COC, and they do not handle stress well at all.

We QT'd them for 6 weeks in a tank with lots of live rock, bare bottom, and airstones for circulation. There was no mechanical filtration or skimmer because I did not want the live food I was feeding them pulled out. They should be offered small live crustaceans initially--brine shrimp (enriched), live mysis if you can get it, tigger pods, etc. They will also take cyclop-eeze pretty quickly. The more often you can feed them the better, so if you can keep the live food in suspension all day long it will be great. You probably won't even see them for the first month or so as they are very shy. Don't bug them by lifting up rocks or looking for them as it will just prolong their acclimation.

Fortunately I did not need to treat these fish for parasites, but if you do they will tolerate therapeutic copper or chloroquine treatments. After 6 weeks or so I started offering them fish eggs, as well as the smallest frozen mysis I could find. You can also try cutting mysis into small pieces. Now I feed them clam and prawn that is either finely chopped or cheese grated, enriched live adult brine, arcti-pods, and capelin eggs. They will also take live mysis on occasion. They still will not accept frozen mysis on a regular basis. The live brine is added 8 times a day with an auto feeder, and I hand feed the other stuff 3-4 times a day. Tankmates are Randall's and Lori's anthias, a firefish, 2 dartfish, and 2 tilefish. I have also kept them with Tuka anthias without problems. More aggressive anthias like lyretails and sunsets will pester them.

HTH,
Matt

Matt,

Thanks a lot. It's really for profession!

Jacky

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Jacky, here is a photo a friend took of the male in this tank...

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[Jacky W]

Hey Jacky, here is a photo a friend took of the male in this tank...

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Really attractive!!!!!!!!