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regal

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You may want to consider doing the Eheim 1260 modification esp. if your aquabee 3000 is crapping out or you are putting less media to avoid "premature pump failure".

LINK

I have the new model 601S with the top that comes off completely. I don't really want to cut the pipe on the deltec. Instead, this is what I did and materials needed.

1) Eheim 1260 with 3/4" FPT input and output (although it says the input is a 1" barb fitting, the actual size of the socket is 3/4" FPT and so is the output)

2) 3/4" FPT slip 90 degree adaptor

3) 3/4" 90 degree elbow slip type

4) 3/4" MPT to slip adaptor X 2

5) 3/4" FPT slip adaptor

6) JB Weld (you can find it in home depot or any auto store)

7) 3/4" PVC pipe

I'll take some pics in the morning.
 

juiceguy

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i have the updated aquabee but i do not trust it. are you going to put a valve on it? i believe the eheim pumps are more powerful than the aquabee
 

regal

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i have the updated aquabee but i do not trust it. are you going to put a valve on it? i believe the eheim pumps are more powerful than the aquabee

I am not using a ball valve for now. The GPH of the eheim is about the same and might be even less than the aquabee 3000. I don't have the outflow curve of the aquabee 3000. But with the added head pressure inside the chamber, I believe you are right about the eheim pumping out more water under this circumstance. Granted the PF 1001 is using the same Eheim 1260 pump, using it on the 601S is probably an overkill.
 

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regal

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Since I could not find a 3/4" 90 degree FPT slip but only a 90 degree slip both ends, I had to use the 3/4" FPT slip adaptor and then a regular 90 degree slip, hence the extra length of the "loop". WIth my less than perfect plumbing skill, I had to readjust the length of the outflow pipe and hence the couplings to make up the difference. "Measure a dozen times and cut once" is a sound advice.
 
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regal

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The MPT thread that goes into the aquabee pump is less than 3/4". So I used the JB weld to bond them together. Make sure you use a good amount to seal the connection, not just to bond them together. I made that mistake and cheap out on the JB and the connections leaked. That's why you see the JB on the outside of the connections. Doing it this way, I avoided cutting the plumbing parts coming out of the reactor and was able to save the original unions and the water feeds of the reactor.
 

juiceguy

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there was another thread on another site that actually cut the pipes above the union so it was a much cleaner install but the problem was getting our standard pvc sizes to fit onto the metric size of the deltec. it seams you solved that with the JB, congratulations. i have the 601 and my current aquabee's performance seams to be slowing down, i may just give this a try.
 

regal

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I mentioned the LINK above on my first post. I do not like the idea of cutting the original pipe. He still had to use JB weld to bond it with our standard PVC pipe. Besides, you have to make a Tee and find other smaller fittings (1/8") for the feed of the reaction chamber once you got rid of the original plumbing of the aquabee.
 
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masterswimmer

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Since I could not find a 3/4" 90 degree FPT slip but only a 90 degree slip both ends, I had to use the 3/4" FPT slip adaptor and then a regular 90 degree slip, hence the extra length of the "loop". WIth my less than perfect plumbing skill, I had to readjust the length of the outflow pipe and hence the couplings to make up the difference. "Measure a dozen times and cut once" is a sound advice.

No need to make excuses for your plumbing job. Looks great and I'm sure it works perfect. Looks like a nice clean job from here. ;)

Russ
 

Dace

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I think you better put a ball valve on that application. remember that the media is suppose to be turning. but not too much. if thats a 1260 which is what in have on my pf1001, it will be too much flow with out a ball valve, and my reactor is much larger then yours
 

regal

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i think you should of put the ball valve right where that union is at: vvvvv

You meant the coupling, right? I thought about adding the ball valve. But my sucky home depot only has the threaded 3/4" not the slip. I'll have to get two threaded-slip adaptors to make it work. I will try Lowe's or online.

BTW Dave, what is the effluent drip rate you're running and the pH? Mine is as low as 6.15 and the dKH is only slightly above 30 from the effluent.
 

Dace

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You meant the coupling, right? I thought about adding the ball valve. But my sucky home depot only has the threaded 3/4" not the slip. I'll have to get two threaded-slip adaptors to make it work. I will try Lowe's or online.

BTW Dave, what is the effluent drip rate you're running and the pH? Mine is as low as 6.15 and the dKH is only slightly above 30 from the effluent.
Mine runs at about 6.3 ph. as for the drip rate, you have to play with it to see what works for you. My system is 600gallons and is 80% sps so i need to have more of a slow stream to keep the calcium steady.
Yes i meant the coupling
 
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juiceguy

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i use the aqualifter to and it works fine for a few months then it slows down but at $10, i always keep a spare around. regal what are using to feed the reactor?
 

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